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Credit Score

A credit score is a number (typically 300–850) that summarizes your creditworthiness. Lenders use it to decide whether to approve your mortgage and what interest rate to charge.

Also known asFICO ScoreCredit Rating
Published Nov 3, 2025Updated Mar 22, 2026

Why It Matters

A credit score is a numerical rating — usually 300–850 — that tells lenders how likely you are to repay debt. Higher scores get better mortgage rates. Conventional loans want 620 minimum; 740+ gets you the best pricing. FHA loans go down to 580 with 3.5% down. A 50-point drop can cost you 0.25–0.5% on your rate — that's thousands over 30 years. Payment history and credit utilization are the biggest factors. Clean those up before you apply.

At a Glance

  • What it is: A number (300–850) that summarizes creditworthiness based on payment history, debt levels, and other factors
  • Why it matters: Lenders use it to approve or deny loans and set your interest rate — a lower score costs you money
  • How to use it: Check your score 3–6 months before applying; fix errors, pay down credit utilization, avoid new credit
  • Common threshold: 740+ = best rates; 620–679 = fair (higher rate); below 620 = limited options, FHA may still work at 580+

How It Works

The big three bureaus — Experian, Equifax, TransUnion — collect your borrowing history. FICO (and VantageScore) crunch that into a single number. Payment history is ~35% of the score. One 30-day late can ding you 50–100 points. Credit utilization — how much of your available credit you're using — is ~30%. Keep it under 30%; under 10% is better. Length of history, new credit, and credit mix round out the rest.

Lender tiers. Conventional mortgage lenders tier pricing by score. 760+ gets the best rate. 740–759 is close. 700–739 pays a bit more. 620–699 pays more still — maybe 0.25–0.5% higher. Below 620 and you're in FHA territory or denial. FHA loans allow 580 with 3.5% down; 500–579 needs 10% down. VA and USDA have their own floors. The point: your score directly determines your rate. A 0.5% difference on a $300,000 loan is ~$90/month — $32,000 over 30 years.

DTI interaction. Lenders also look at your DTI ratio — debt-to-income. A 780 score with 55% DTI can still get denied. Score gets you in the door; DTI determines how much you can borrow. Clean up both before you shop.

Real-World Example

Memphis duplex, 2024.

You're buying a $185,000 duplex with 5% down. Your score: 720. Rate: 6.75%. Monthly P&I: $1,127. Your buddy has a 660. Same loan, same lender. His rate: 7.25%. Monthly P&I: $1,189. That's $62/month more — $744/year. Over 30 years: $22,320 in extra interest. Same property, same down payment. The only difference: 60 points on a credit score.

If you'd paid down your cards 3 months earlier and bumped to 740, you might've gotten 6.5%. That's another $40/month. Small moves in score = big moves in cost. Check your score before you shop. Fix what you can. Then apply.

Pros & Cons

Advantages
  • One number summarizes your creditworthiness — lenders use it everywhere
  • Improve it over time: pay on time, lower credit utilization, don't close old accounts
  • Higher score = better mortgage rates = lower monthly payment and total interest
  • Free access: AnnualCreditReport.com, many banks and cards offer free FICO or VantageScore
  • FHA and VA offer paths for scores in the 580–620 range
Drawbacks
  • One late payment can drop you 50–100 points — recovery takes months
  • Errors on your report hurt you; disputing takes time
  • Score isn't everything — DTI ratio, employment, reserves matter too
  • Different lenders use different score versions — FICO 2, 4, 5 for mortgages; your card might show FICO 8
  • Building history takes time — thin files (few accounts) limit how high you can go

Watch Out

  • Applying with errors: Pull your report 3–6 months before applying. Dispute inaccuracies — wrong accounts, paid-off debt still showing balance, identity mix-ups. Fixing errors can lift your score 20–50 points.
  • High utilization: Credit utilization over 30% hurts. Pay down cards 2–3 months before applying. Don't close accounts — that reduces available credit and can raise utilization. Pay down, keep open.
  • New credit before applying: Opening new cards or loans right before a mortgage application can ding your score (new credit = ~10% of FICO). Avoid new accounts 6 months before you apply.
  • Rate-shopping window: Multiple mortgage inquiries within 14–45 days (depending on model) count as one. Shop lenders in a tight window so you don't get penalized for rate-shopping.

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The Takeaway

Your credit score is the number that opens — or closes — the door to mortgage approval and sets your interest rate. 740+ gets the best terms. 620 is the conventional floor. FHA goes lower. A 50-point difference can cost you thousands over the life of the loan. Check your score early. Fix errors. Lower credit utilization. Then apply.

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