What Is Brick Veneer?
Most "brick" houses built after 1960 are brick veneer, not solid brick. The distinction matters for investors because veneer has specific inspection points—weep holes, flashing, wall ties, and mortar joints—that, if compromised, lead to moisture damage behind the brick. A well-maintained brick veneer exterior adds roughly 6% to resale value compared to vinyl siding. Insurance premiums are often lower because brick resists wind, fire, and impact better than other claddings. But deferred maintenance (cracked mortar, missing weep holes, failed flashing) can hide thousands of dollars in hidden water damage.
Brick veneer is a single layer of non-structural brick applied over wood or steel frame construction, serving as a decorative and weather-resistant exterior. Unlike solid (structural) brick, the veneer does not support the building's weight—the frame behind it does.
At a Glance
- What it is: Non-structural brick exterior attached to frame construction
- vs. Solid brick: Veneer is one layer; solid brick is two or more load-bearing layers
- Key inspection points: Weep holes, flashing, mortar joints, wall ties
- Value impact: ~6% resale premium over comparable non-brick homes
- Maintenance: Mortar repointing every 20–30 years; flashing inspection at purchase
- Common in: SFR and small multifamily built after 1960, especially in Southeast and Midwest
How It Works
Construction Method. Brick veneer is installed with a 1-inch air gap (cavity) between the brick and the structural sheathing. Metal wall ties anchor the brick to the frame at regular intervals. At the bottom of each wall section, flashing (a waterproof membrane) directs any moisture that enters the cavity to weep holes—small openings in the mortar joints at the base of the wall. Water drains out through the weep holes. This drainage system is the single most critical element of brick veneer construction.
How to Tell Veneer from Solid Brick. Measure wall thickness at a door or window opening—brick veneer walls are typically 9–10 inches total (4 inches of brick + air gap + frame). Solid brick walls are 12+ inches. Look at the brick pattern: veneer uses stretcher bond (all bricks laid lengthwise), while solid brick often shows header courses (bricks turned sideways) every 5–7 rows. Tap the wall—veneer sounds hollow; solid brick sounds solid. On the building corner, check if the brick wraps around or if you can see the frame material at the edge.
Inspection Priorities. When evaluating a brick veneer property for purchase, check: (1) Weep holes—are they present at the base of walls, above windows, and above doors? Are they open or clogged with mortar? Clogged weep holes trap moisture and cause rot. (2) Flashing—visible at the base of walls and above windows. Missing or deteriorated flashing allows water behind the brick. (3) Mortar joints—cracked, crumbling, or missing mortar lets water penetrate. Repointing costs $8–$15 per square foot. (4) Step cracks—diagonal cracks following the mortar joints may indicate foundation settlement. (5) Bulging or bowing—sections of veneer pulling away from the frame suggest failed wall ties, which is a structural concern.
Real-World Example
Angela is evaluating a 1985 four-unit building in Nashville. The brick veneer looks solid from the curb, but her inspector flags three issues: weep holes on the east wall are completely clogged with mortar debris, flashing above two windows is deteriorated, and a 6-foot section of mortar on the north side needs repointing. Estimated repair costs: weep hole clearing ($400), flashing replacement ($1,200), mortar repointing ($2,800). Total: $4,400. Without these repairs, moisture would continue entering the wall cavity, eventually causing wood rot in the sheathing and framing—a $15,000–$25,000 problem. Angela negotiates a $5,000 price reduction and schedules repairs immediately after closing. The building's brick exterior commands $50/month more per unit than comparable vinyl-sided buildings in the area, adding $2,400/year in rental income.
Pros & Cons
- Lower maintenance than wood siding—no painting, minimal upkeep between repointing cycles
- Fire, wind, and impact resistant—may reduce insurance premiums 5–15%
- Adds approximately 6% to resale value compared to vinyl or fiber cement siding
- Lasts 50–100+ years with proper maintenance
- Attractive to tenants—brick is perceived as more durable and upscale
- Moisture problems are hidden behind the brick—damage may go undetected for years
- Mortar repointing costs $8–$15/sq ft and is needed every 20–30 years
- Failed wall ties require partial removal of brick to repair—expensive ($50–$100/sq ft)
- Cannot easily add exterior insulation—the cavity is already fixed
- Older brick veneer may lack modern moisture management (no house wrap, no flashing)
Watch Out
- Clogged weep holes: The number one maintenance issue. Mortar droppings during construction clog weep holes from the inside. Landscaping mulch or soil piled against the base clogs them from the outside. Clear weep holes annually and keep soil 6 inches below the lowest weep hole.
- Missing flashing: Many pre-1990 brick veneer homes were built without proper flashing at the base of walls. Retrofitting flashing is expensive and disruptive—it requires removing and reinstalling several courses of brick. Budget $3,000–$8,000 per wall section if flashing is absent.
- Repointing with wrong mortar: Modern Portland cement mortar is too hard for older soft brick. Using the wrong mortar causes the brick to crack instead of the mortar absorbing stress. Insist on Type O or Type K mortar for pre-1920 brick. This mistake is common among inexperienced contractors.
- Efflorescence: White crystalline deposits on the brick surface indicate moisture is migrating through the wall. It is cosmetic but signals a drainage problem. Clean with a stiff brush and water, but also find the moisture source—failed flashing, clogged weep holes, or cracked mortar.
Ask an Investor
The Takeaway
Brick veneer is the most common exterior on SFR and small multifamily properties in the Southeast and Midwest. It adds value, reduces insurance costs, and lasts decades—but only with proper moisture management. During acquisition, inspect weep holes, flashing, and mortar joints. Budget for repointing every 20–30 years. A $4,000 repair today prevents a $20,000 moisture damage problem tomorrow.